We took the ferry from Positano to Capri and it was all very straight forward and a pleasant ride over. However, once you arrive at the port of Capri it really is madness. There are so many hecklers trying to sell you boat rides and excursions if you make eye-contact with them for a second they'll be on you.
We stayed at Hotel Capri and again we were happy with our choice. The room was spacious and it was close to public transportation - both the Funicular and the bus stop. We did spend the first day walking around Capri center town. It was filled with people and high-end shopping.
Then we took bus up to Anacapri in the evening and exploring there. It was so much quieter that it didn't feel as it you were there at peek-season. We explored the beautiful Villa San Michele and rode the famous chair lift to Mount Solaro to take in the stunning views. One of the main reasons I wanted to go to Capri was because of the Sophia Lauren-Clark Gables movie It Started In Naples . In the movie they ride the lift together, and it looks so romantic and picturesque that I was yearning to go on it.
From there was stopped at the beautiful hotel Capri Palace and asked the concierge if he could recommend a local favourite place for dinner. He was so friendly, didn't mind at all that we weren't guests of the hotel, and arranged for a the restaurant shuttle to pick us up from the hotel and then drop us back off at the bus station. Our dinner at Giorgio Al Cucciolo was phenomenal with gorgeous sunset views.
The next day we rented a boat for 2 1/2 hours to go around the island. To us, this was the best way to experience Capri away from all the swarms of people. Our skipper would drive the boat into all these hidden grottos and we'd dive off and go for a swim. We avoided the famous blue grotto because it's pretty much a money grab.
The next day we were back on the ferry headed towards Naples. We stayed at the UNA Hotel which is right across from the train station. The area is definitely sketchy but we had a 9am train to catch back to Rome the next day so it was convenient for us. That said we were very happy with the service and our hotel room. We spent the day walking around and we saw basically what you've come to know about Naples - a lot of garbage and angry faces. It's not a place and I would feel comfortably really exploring on my own but I actually didn't mind the crudeness of it all. Then again I am half Sicilian .
My sole purpose for stopping there was to try the famous Napoli pizza. We went to L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele, made famous by the Julia Roberts in Eat, Pray, Love. If you can't tell by the picture below....it delivered. Big time!
And with that, my belly full from two glorious weeks living La Dolce Vita, our trip came to an end.
Grazie Mille Italia xoxo