amalfi coast positano

Italy Part III: Positano

A car took us from Ravello to Positano. It was about a 30-40 minute drive winding down the mountains and back up again which resulted in me getting serious motion sickness. The views were great though. We spent 4 days in Positano- our longest stay of the trip. We stayed at the Hotel Conca d'oro which was perfect for us. It was high up and had amazing views so before dinner we would grab a drink and chill in the jacuzzi at the rooftop bar.

Positano is much more lively than Ravello. In Ravello I actually felt a stronger presence of the locals, whereas Positano is packed with tourists. That said it was refreshing to go down to the beach and be around other younger people and having music pouring out of the restaurants and bars along the beach. It livened up the tempo of our trip.

Our routine was pretty consistent: wake up, breakfast at hotel, walk down to market to get out lunches, head to the beach and stay there until 4ish. The little market, Latteria, was between out hotel and the beach and it was absolutely perfect. Particularly since the distance between out hotel at the top of the hill and the beach at the base included a casual 300 steps in totally. Climbing up and down 600 plus steps a day really works up an appetite! We would get two massive fresh made paninis (with the best pesto I've ever had), two large beers, and a big bottle of water - all for €20. You can't beat that on the Amalfi Coast! The restaurant by the beach was nice enough to give us a bucket of ice to keep our drinks cold each day. It was amazing and sustained us all day.

The hidden gem of Positano is Da Adolfo; a little seculded beach you can only get to via boat. At the dock there is a little fishing boat with a huge red fish on the mast with the word’s “Da Adolfo” scrawled across it. The boat is free and comes every 30min or so. Ideally you'll want to get there before 11am to beat the crowd.

The beach is small and volcanic with lots of little coves to explore. The sun beds (which yes you do pay for) are lined up a little too closely together in that classic packed-like-sardines Italy way. But just go with it, everyone ignores each other anyway. Soon you'll be ready for lunch, which is why everyone really comes there. About five paces from the beach is the restaurant where one of the charming, somewhat jaunty, barefoot waiters will read out the menu in Italian at lightening speed.

This is where we use our tried-and-true strategy and just say you pick what's best! Soon there was a big jug of house white wine filled with peaches, massive fig leafs with fresh mozzarella melted on top, the best tuna carpaccio I've ever had, and some spectacularly fresh zuppa di cozze. Needless to say it was probably my favourite meal of the trip and my new favourite restaurant of all time!

A close runner up though is La Tagliata It's more than a restaurant it's an experience. It's a family owned trattoria, set high in the hills above Positano in Montepertuso, with breathtaking views over the sea that words or pictures simply cannot do justice. Nonna is literally in the kitchen, the father hosts, children serve and the wife sings. Actually, everyone sings! While she starts off serenading guests she soon pulls out instruments for patrons to play and passes the microphone around. It's so fun and interactive, everyone leaves on a high.

The fun though does not outshine the food. The menus is set at €35 including unlimited house wine (red and white). From the moment you sit down until you leave the food...does...not..stop!! Platter after platter came to our table, I think food coma sat in half way through. Between the views, food, entertainment and price you cannot go wrong.

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